Colour: Forest honey.
Nose: Tantalising, oddly enticing petrol fumes to the fore, closely followed by stewed prunes.
Palate: Set against the trademark Speyside toasted grain backdrop, this 26-year-old rendition, raised in a 225-litre barrique which previously held that superlative Bordeaux Lafitte, a generous slab of treacle toffee quickly fills the mouth. Discerning taste buds will then glean oat cookies studded with currants. The robust flavour palette generates some pleasing warmth.
Finish: A long, mellow finish with evidence of the fine wine that was the whisky’s companion for so many years.
Overall comment: This is a BIG whisky whose full flavour and natural heat could doubtless hold its own against a chicken madras!
Customary Mortlach excellence, coupled with the fine Bordeaux, render this a premium malt of the highest order which will come into its own in the bleak midwinter.
By Whisky Enthusiast & Journalist